
Deanna L Heon, Beverage Program Director, Simon Pearce Restaurant
Ancient Varietals of Campania
Thursday, February 9, 2012
Simon Pearce Restaurant, Quechee, VT
Reservations online or by calling (802) 295-1470
Host: Maurizio de Rosa, Feudi di San Gregorio
Buongiorno, Amici!
When you think of the breathtaking country of Italy, what comes to mind? Abundant vineyards? Amazing cuisine? Dramatic oceanscapes? How about volcanoes? That is what you will find in the Campania region of Southern Italy – Mount Vesuvius, a volcano that has, historically, erupted nearly every 2,000 years and may surprise us in our lifetime by coming to life again. From atop the feet of layered ash and pumice left behind after the last massive eruption of “Vesuvio” in 79 a.d., came a land so fertile, verdant and lush that legends were born. One such legend states that as Jesus Christ was ascending toward Heaven he flew over this landscape and was so taken by it’s beauty that he wept tears of joy…And while you may or may not believe that story, when you experience this spectacular region for the first time, it may, in fact, bring you to tears!
Located in the tiny village of Sorbo Serpico in Campania’s Irpinia region and within close proximity to Mount Vesuvius is the Feudi di San Gregorio estate, established in 1986. Feudi is Campania’s premier winemaking estate and they are known for being ahead of their time in advancements and innovation in winemaking. Feudi’s winemakers have tapped into the incredible potential of Campania’s unique and ancient varietals. The land is layered with mineral-rich deposits of volcanic ash which are remarkably flavorful to vines and produce many varietals with very distinctive notes and aromas. Many of the vines used by Feudi di San Gregorio are centuries old, including the oldest Aglianico vines in the country. Our host, Maurizio de Rosa is a wealth of knowledge on the history of the country and region and is a passionate and enthusiastic educator.
Chef Joshua has come up with an authentic menu to pair with these magnificent wines that will transport you to another time, make you feel the warmth of true Italian hospitality and maybe even smell the aromas of the sea and ever-abundant lemons that perfume the Southern Italian air.
For this event, our menu is as follows;
Grilled Scamorza and Crispy Prosciutto
arugula, ciabatta, cipollini marmellata
Greco di Tufo, “DUBL” 2006, Vino Spumante di Qualita
“DUBL” is Feudi’s “new journey into the world of sparkling wines” – a collaborative effort between Feudi’s winemaker, Riccardo Cotarella, and famed Champagne producer, Anselme Selosse. They have produced a unique sparkling wine made from the Greco di Tufo grape – with a deep golden color, a delicate yet frothy mousse and a body that lends a fullness in the mouth that is unusual for a sparkling wine. You will enjoy the savory, flinty minerality that complements the prosciutto, as well as the touches of caramel , orange zest and citrus that lend some depth and refreshing acidity to the richness of this course.
Maine Shrimp & Point Judith Calamari
citrus risotto, tarragon olive oil
Greco di Tufo, 2009, Greco di Tufo DOCG
This “still wine” expression of the Greco di Tufo grape will wow you with its golden shimmer, bright aromatics, notes of fresh herbs, blood orange & meyer lemon. We are pairing it with our seafood and citrus risotto to highlight the interesting citrus qualities in both the wine and the dish and to reveal the Greco’s lengthy, palate-cleansing finish.
Veal Braciola
raisins, pine nuts, chick peas, Maplebrook Farms ricotta, roasted tomato cream
Aglianico, “Rubrato” 2007, Irpinia/Aglianico IGT
Translating to “brilliant ruby”, this Aglianico that Feudi calls “Rubrato” is just that in color and in the mouth-watering juiciness of this youthful and exuberant wine. With notes of ripe strawberries, black cherries, a touch of smoke and eucalyptus, this Aglianico is just subtle enough to work in harmony with the veal and tomato cream without making too bold a statement.
Grilled Beef Short Ribs
eggplant, escarole, roasted chestnut polenta, white balsamic porcini reduction
Aglianico, “Taurasi” 2006, Taurasi DOCG
Feudi’s powerhouse of an Aglianico is quite unlike the “Rubrato” as it is a bit more mature, masculine and muscular. It holds you in its grip with a black fruit core, bittersweet chocolate & cinnamon mid-palate and that ever-present underlying volcanic ash dustiness on its richly tannic finish. It is a seamless companion to the short ribs, creamy polenta and mushroom reduction – again without demanding too much attention – Italians call that quality in a wine “non impegnativo”.
Wild Flower Honey Zabaglione
golden figs, shaved white chocolate, almond lace
Fiano/Falanghina, “Privilegio” 2007, Campania Bianco IGT
This layered delight of a “dolce” is the perfect vehicle to showcase Feudi’s elegant, seductively sweet and fragrant Fiano/Falanghina blend they call “Privilegio”. A privilege, indeed, to enjoy this honeyed, golden raisin and apricot “nectar” with its perfect balance of sweetness & acid and a persistent apricot and mango finish.
Buon Appetito!!
Deanna L Heon, Beverage Program Director
Simon Pearce Restaurant